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This New Jersey BBQ Joint Smokes Its Meat for 14 Hours and It’s Worth Every Minute

Duncan Edwards 10 min read

By the time the lunch crowd starts thinking about brisket, the brisket at Local Smoke BBQ has already put in a longer shift than most of us. The Cookstown restaurant gives its Texas-style beef brisket a full 14 hours in the smoker, building the dark exterior, rosy smoke ring, and soft interior that make slow barbecue worth the wait.

That kind of patience feels especially at home at this unfussy spot on Wrightstown Cookstown Road, where the menu skips precious presentation in favor of ribs, pulled pork, chicken, cornbread, mac ’n cheese, and trays designed to leave very little room on the table.

Local Smoke also has genuine competition credentials behind the swagger, with more than 140 awards collected since its barbecue team began competing in 2007.

Still, you don’t need to know anything about judging scores or smoke rings to get the point. Order the brisket and 14 hours suddenly seems perfectly reasonable.

The Cookstown Smokehouse That Built Its Reputation One Slow-Smoked Cut at a Time

The Cookstown Smokehouse That Built Its Reputation One Slow-Smoked Cut at a Time
© Local Smoke BBQ

Local Smoke BBQ actually existed as a competition team before it became the kind of place where you could walk in and order lunch. The story started in 2007 with Fat Angel BBQ, a competition crew that earned national Rookie Team of the Year honors during its first season.

That success led to a catering operation, and in 2011 Local Smoke opened its first two restaurants in Cookstown and Neptune. Cookstown remains an especially fitting home base.

The restaurant sits at 19 Wrightstown Cookstown Road in New Hanover, close to Joint Base McGuire-Dix-Lakehurst, in a part of Burlington County where roadside businesses and open stretches of South Jersey feel a long way from the polished restaurant rows farther north.

There is no attempt to turn barbecue into fine dining here. The Cookstown location offers indoor dining, takeout, and third-party delivery, and it is BYOB. What matters most is what comes off the smoker.

Local Smoke says its approach grew directly from the barbecue the team encountered while competing around the country, including contests in states such as Kansas, Missouri, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, and Arkansas. That matters because the menu doesn’t lock itself into one narrow regional style.

You’ll find Texas-style brisket next to Carolina-sauced pulled pork, St. Louis ribs, smoked turkey, chicken, and even jalapeño-cheddar Wagyu sausage.

The result feels less like somebody in New Jersey trying to imitate one famous barbecue state and more like a team that spent years taking notes, competing against serious pitmasters, and bringing its favorite lessons home.

Why 14 Hours in the Smoker Makes Such a Difference

Why 14 Hours in the Smoker Makes Such a Difference
© Local Smoke BBQ

Fourteen hours sounds excessive until you consider what a brisket looks like before the smoker gets involved. It is a dense, hardworking cut with connective tissue that does not respond kindly to shortcuts.

Give it low heat and enough time, however, and that tough structure gradually relaxes as fat renders and collagen breaks down, producing the tenderness people expect from properly handled barbecue.

Local Smoke’s current menu describes its beef brisket plainly as “14 hour smoked Texas style brisket,” and the kitchen backs that long cook with a wood combination that is more New Jersey than Texas.

The restaurant says it smokes its meats with sugar maple and cherry wood, then works in its house Uncle Dick’s BBQ Rub and homemade sauces. That combination helps explain why smoke here is not supposed to taste like somebody emptied an ashtray over dinner.

Fruitwood and maple can build smoke flavor while still leaving room for beef, pork, and poultry to taste like themselves. There is also a visual payoff.

Slice through properly smoked meat at Local Smoke and you may see a pink-to-red band just beneath the surface. That is the smoke ring, not a sign that dinner came out raw.

The restaurant notes that its barbecue finishes at well-done temperatures ranging from roughly 170 to 200 degrees depending on the meat. Not everything spends 14 hours cooking, either.

Local Smoke says its St. Louis ribs are slow-smoked for about six hours. The point isn’t hitting one magic number across the menu. It is giving each cut the time it needs instead of forcing dinner to obey the clock.

Brisket With the Bark, Smoke Ring, and Tenderness BBQ Fans Crave

Brisket With the Bark, Smoke Ring, and Tenderness BBQ Fans Crave
© Local Smoke BBQ

There is an easy way to test a barbecue restaurant before getting distracted by loaded fries, fried pickles, or mac ’n cheese bowls. Order brisket with as little camouflage as possible.

At Local Smoke, that means choosing the 14-hour Texas-style beef either sliced or chopped. As of the current Cookstown menu, a half-pound runs $15 and a full pound is $28, while the $27 brisket plate adds one side and a piece of cornbread.

A brisket sandwich on brioche is $15. The sliced version gives you the clearest look at what those hours in the smoker accomplished: a dark seasoned exterior, the characteristic smoke ring beneath it, and an interior that should hold together when lifted but surrender without a wrestling match once you bite into it.

Chopped brisket goes in another direction, mixing those darker outside pieces through the softer meat and catching more of the sweet barbecue sauce. Then Local Smoke starts having a little fun with it.

The $11 Brisket Grilled Cheese piles beef brisket, Cooper Sharp cheese, and sweet BBQ sauce onto Texas toast, while the $16 Beef Brisket Mac Bowl puts chopped brisket and sauce over mac ’n cheese. Neither is exactly competition-judge minimalism, but that is part of the appeal.

You can taste the brisket straight, then see how well that smoky beef stands up to cheese, bread, and sauce. Even the kids’ menu gets a chopped brisket platter.

For anyone who takes barbecue seriously, though, the simple plate is still the revealing order. Sauce can add something, but 14 hours of careful smoking should give the meat plenty to say before you reach for the bottle.

Pulled Pork, Ribs, and Chicken Give Brisket Some Serious Competition

Pulled Pork, Ribs, and Chicken Give Brisket Some Serious Competition
© Local Smoke BBQ

The hardest part of ordering at Local Smoke may happen about thirty seconds after deciding you definitely want brisket. That is when you notice the rest of the smoker has been busy, too.

Pulled pork is the obvious second move, served with Carolina BBQ sauce and priced at $10 for a sandwich or $20 for a plate with a side and cornbread. It brings a tangier personality to the table than the brisket, especially once that vinegar-forward sauce gets involved.

The St. Louis ribs make an even stronger case for sharing. They are cooked competition-style, slow-smoked and finished on the grill with sweet barbecue sauce; a half rack is currently $18 à la carte, while a full rack is $32.

Local Smoke’s own background notes that these ribs spend about six hours smoking, enough time to pick up color and wood flavor without turning into boneless pork with handles. Poultry gets more attention than it does at plenty of barbecue joints.

The pulled chicken is house-brined before smoking, while the half BBQ chicken is $11 à la carte and $17 as a plate. Then there are the Smoke-A-Fried Wings, which may be the menu’s smartest bit of excess: dry-rubbed wings are smoked in-house, fried to order, and served with a choice of sauce, with eight currently priced at $15.

If choosing still feels impossible, Local Smoke has essentially admitted defeat on your behalf. The $25 two-meat plate and $35 three-meat plate let you mix things up, while a $40 Meat Flight includes pulled pork, brisket, pulled chicken, St. Louis ribs, Wagyu sausage, and smoked turkey.

Sometimes indecision deserves its own tray.

More Than 140 Awards Prove Local Smoke BBQ Knows Its Way Around a Smoker

More Than 140 Awards Prove Local Smoke BBQ Knows Its Way Around a Smoker
© Local Smoke BBQ

Before the Cookstown dining room, the brioche sandwiches, and the mac bowls, there were judges with scorecards. Local Smoke’s competition history stretches back to that original Fat Angel BBQ team in 2007, and the trophy count eventually climbed beyond 140 awards.

More impressive than the raw number is where some of those wins happened. The team has earned five New Jersey State BBQ Championship titles, and in 2020 it picked up a World Turkey Championship title at the KCBS World Invitational.

One of its biggest early results came at the 2009 American Royal BBQ competition in Kansas City, where Local Smoke’s competition team took first place in ribs against a field numbering in the hundreds. Brisket has brought home serious hardware, too, including a first-place finish at the National BBQ Festival in Douglas, Georgia.

The restaurant’s competition record lists wins and high finishes in pork, ribs, brisket, chicken, turkey, dessert, and specialty categories over the years. That history matters because competition barbecue can be brutally specific.

A box of ribs does not get bonus points because the dining room has cool signs or because everybody working the counter is friendly. Judges are looking at appearance, tenderness, and flavor in a tiny sample that has to make an immediate impression.

Restaurant cooking is different, of course; feeding lunch and dinner crowds day after day is not the same exercise as turning in a carefully selected competition box. But Local Smoke built its cooking philosophy in that environment.

The awards are not the reason a brisket sandwich tastes good. They simply explain why this little Cookstown barbecue operation approaches smoke, seasoning, and tenderness with considerably more experience than its casual setting might suggest.

Homemade Sauces and Classic Sides Complete the Smokehouse Experience

Homemade Sauces and Classic Sides Complete the Smokehouse Experience
© Local Smoke BBQ

Eventually, even excellent smoked meat needs something creamy, crunchy, tangy, or unapologetically cheesy sitting next to it. Local Smoke handles that part with a lineup that understands barbecue sides should not behave like garnish.

The current Cookstown menu prices mac ’n cheese at $6 and up, coleslaw and Kay’s Potato Salad at $5 and up, BBQed beans at $5 and up, and collard greens at $6 and up. Sweet Chili Brussels sprouts bring a less traditional option for $7 and up, while a piece of cornbread is just $1.

The sauces are equally deliberate. Local Smoke’s core homemade lineup includes Original Sweet, a thick Kansas City-style tomato sauce paired with ribs, chicken, and brisket; Carolina Style, a tomato-and-vinegar sauce with pepper flakes served with pulled pork; and Original Spicy, which takes the sweet house sauce in a hotter direction.

The broader menu also offers options such as Carolina mustard, sweet chili, buffalo, garlic parmesan, and BBQ ranch, so an order of wings can head in a completely different direction from a plate of ribs. The best combinations tend to work by contrast.

Rich brisket gets a reset from slaw. Pulled pork has enough acidity in the Carolina sauce to keep the next forkful interesting.

Mac ’n cheese does what mac ’n cheese has always done best and makes absolutely no apology for being heavier than the meat beside it. And a piece of cornbread is handy for collecting the sauce, rendered juices, and stray bits of bark left at the end.

After 14 hours of waiting on the brisket, leaving those last smoky pieces behind would seem unnecessarily wasteful.

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